One Month Backpacking in Patagonia

Glacier

One Month Backpacking in Patagonia – Update 2023

Backpacking in Patagonia was our dream, and surprisingly, it was also our first destination in Argentina.

To tell the truth, we never expected to start our trip around the world with this incredible place, however this way, we were able to visit Patagonia for a whole month. We decided to publish this post and update it sporadically to give you some tips about backpacking in Patagonia.

This post may contain affiliate links. We earn a small commission if you purchase something through the affiliate link.

We know that things change a lot, and you never know if the prices are the same or the bus routes don’t exist anymore.

On the other hand, we realized that things to do or see in Patagonia are more or less the same and for this reason, we have decided to write everything we know in this post. We hope you find this travel guide useful, and you make the most of your month while backpacking in Patagonia.

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 Why did we choose Argentina’s Patagonia? – Backpacking in Patagonia

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Backpacking in Patagonia was our dream and surprisingly also our first destination in Argentina.

Our original plan was to explore Chile and then continue to Patagonia on the Argentinian side. Well, it did not happen this way, as some of you might know.

We arrived in Santiago de Chile directly from Barcelona. It was a day before all the demonstrations started, and Chilean people wanted their voice to be heard. We originally planned three days in Santiago and then to continue to Valparaiso to enjoy some beach time.

We did stay three days in Santiago; however, we could not walk on the streets as the government announced the state of emergency in the city. Supermarkets were closed, the metro was destroyed, buses to and from Santiago were cancelled. We found ourselves in the middle of the revolution, and we did not feel safe.

The next thing we did was to change our plan.

We could not get to Valparaiso anymore due to the cancellation of all buses so we decided to leave Chile. We caught a flight to Buenos Aires and this was also the moment when we decided to go Backpacking in Patagonia.

In this post, we will take you on our Patagonia journey, and we will provide you with tips and advice on how to travel to Patagonia on a budget.

As it was our first destination on our trip around the world, we wanted to make sure we see the most of it, so here you can read the full Patagonia Backpacking itinerary.

Before you deep dive in our travel itinerary, we recommend you to read our post with tips on how to travel safely not only in South America which might help you with the preparation of your trip.

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¡Descarga nuestra nueva etiqueta de viaje a continuación y deja que comience la aventura!

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Backpacking in Patagonia– Backpacking in Patagonia

As we mentioned before, we flew to Buenos Aires and from there, after a week to settle, we started our journey to Patagonia.
 
From the bus station (retiro station) we took a bus with a 19h journey towards Puerto Madryn, where we planned to visit the famous Peninsula Valdés. In this situation, we used Via Bariloche company because they were the best option in this area. But you can also use this search engine to see if there are other options.
 
Remember, all the prices you see are from the end of 2019. We advise you to use them only as a reference because everything is certainly more expensive now.

Puerto Madryn– Backpacking in Patagonia

Overall, we stayed three days in Puerto Madryn, and it was enough time to explore everything.

Day 1: Punta Loma Beach

The first day, we decided to explore the area a bit differently, so we rented a bike for 660 ARS/6 hours. Arriving here, we did not realize that the roads in Puerto Madryn and surroundings are not the best, as most of them are gravel and rocky. Anyway, we already rented bikes and paid, so there was no choice.

Our destination was Punta Loma beach, which is popular for Sea Lions. Punta Loma is located about 1.5h from Puerto Madryn on the bike. However, it took us more than two hours to get there. It was hard, we sweat a lot, but it was entirely worth it. When we arrived at the destination, we could see many Sea Lions lying on the beach, relaxing and playing, it was just amazing.

We would definitely recommend making this trip as you will be able to see the Sea Lions from the short distance. Maybe not on bike, he-he, but either by rented car or by taxi, which was not costly + – 1400 ARS. 

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Backpacking in Patagonia - Sea lions Punta Loma Beach
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Day 2: Peninsula Valdés

On our second day in Puerto Madryn, we decided to take a tour to Peninsula Valdes.

We wanted to explore this part of Patagonia with a guided tour to make sure we can see everything in one day.

We opted in for the Peninsula Valdés Tour including Whale watching in Puerto Pirámides which was offered to us in the hostel we stayed in.

The tour cost 3000 ARS plus park entrance 850 ARS . Additionally, you also have to pay the boat tour to see the whales for an extra 2500 ARS.

We were picked up in our hostel at 8 am, and it took us about 3h to get to the National Park of Peninsula Valdes. We also stopped in the Cultural centre where you can see Park history and more information about all the animals.

When we arrived at the furthest point in Peninsula Valdés we made a few short stops to observe the Sea lions and Magellanic Penguins and also one 45min stop for lunch. During the lunch break, we had a chance to walk around and see some whales from the viewpoint. We were basically eating our sandwiches while watching whales and sea lions in front of us.

Definitely a great experience. On the way back, the bus stopped in Puerto Piramides which is famous for watching whales in their natural environment. As we were on a budget we were not able to take this boat tour, however, the people who did it, told us that it was very nice as they could see two or three different whales. Well, next time:)

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Backpacking in Patagonia - Magallanes penguin in Peninsula Valdes

Day 3: Puerto Madryn city

During our last day, we were relaxing in the morning and exploring Puerto Madryn city. You can walk along the beach and observe the difference between low and high tide which is quite a big difference.

If you come during October and November, you will see restaurants offering Roasted Patagonia Lamb which is very popular during these months.

 

At the end of the third day, we caught a bus to San Carlos de Bariloche where we arrived the next morning around 11 am.

Where to stay in Puerto Madryn while Backpacking in Patagonia

We stayed in La Tosca Hostel which is about 10min walk from the Bus Terminal. They offer double rooms with shared bathroom and also rooms with bunk beds for 2 people and more which are cheaper than a double bed.

WiFi: good signal

Location: very good

Price: reasonable, on budget

Extra info: they offer tours that can be booked directly

To find other accommodations in Puerto Madryn, click here to see the availability and prices.

Whether we go, to the beach or to the mountains, on a day trip or for several months, we always carry this incredible product with us. The portable water filter is an essential product on our trips, as it is sustainable, useful and super small, a real joy. Click here for more information!

San Carlos de Bariloche– Backpacking in Patagonia

Our second Patagonia stop was San Carlos de Bariloche. The completely opposite side of Argentina than Puerto Madryn, full of lakes and national parks. We stayed three full days in Bariloche as there were many things to see and do.

San Carlos de Bariloche is popular for its amazing nature with lakes, craft beer, chocolate and as a ski resort during the winter.

We arrived at the end of October, so the ski season was already over. However, it was much colder than in Puerto Madryn, and very windy. Fair enough, the ski season finished only two weeks after our arrival.

Day 1: Circuito Chico Llao Llao Park

On the first day, we caught a local bus (number 20) to get to Circuito Chico and explore Llao Llao Park. We decided for 2.8 km long Llao Llao hill trail which offered us a beautiful view from the top.

We returned a different way and walked the Arrayanes Trail, where we could see some Arrayan trees and Moreno Lake. Strongly recommended!

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Backpacking in Patagonia - Arraynes Park on the left and view from a hill in the Llaollao Trail on the right
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Day 2: Camino de 7 Lagos (Road of the 7 Lakes)

Bariloche is renowned for its Camino de 7 Lagos, so, of course, we could not miss it. On the second day, we opted in for a whole day guided tour for, 1990 ARS per person.

We had a great guide, Clemente, who informed us all about each Lake, history, Patagonian nature and some secrets about Bariloche. We stopped in a small farm, where we could taste delicious homemade fried buns (torta frita) with coffee.

On the way back, we also had a lunch break in San Martín de Los Andes. A small city surrounded by the Lacar Lake was a perfect place to have lunch.

It was a great tour, and we believe that taking a tour was more interesting than renting a car and exploring the Road by ourselves.

Day 3: San Carlos de Bariloche city

On our last day in Bariloche, we wanted to relax, so we went to taste some hot chocolate, drink craft beer with Patagonian entrecôte and visit Bariloche city center.

The city borders Nahuel Huapi, a large lake which is surrounded by the Andes Mountains, so go for a walk among the lake, and you won’t be disappointed.

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Impatiently waiting for Patagonian Steak

Where to stay in San Carlos de Bariloche while Backpacking in Patagonia

As Bariloche is quite big, there are many options to find the right accommodation. We stayed in Trip Bariloche Select Hostel which turned out to be one of the cheapest hostels we stayed in Patagonia.

WiFi: good signal

Location: excellent, right in the city centre

Price: excellent, very economic

Extra info: The kitchen was fully equipped with ovens, stoves and big fridge so you could really cook or even bake anything.

To find other options to stay in Bariloche, click here for availability and prices.

Whether we go, to the beach or to the mountains, on a day trip or for several months, we always carry this incredible product with us. The portable water filter is an essential product on our trips, as it is sustainable, useful and super small, a real joy. Click here for more information!

PIN IT

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El Bolsón – Backpacking in Patagonia

For many backpackers, el Bolson is the typical next travel destination from San Carlos de Bariloche, as it is located only about two hours by bus. We also decided to follow the road and go directly to el Bolson.

Day 1: Cerro Amigo and Feria Artesanal

To utilize our time to the maximum, on the first day we did a small hike up to Cerro Amigo. It is a 30-min walk and on the top, you will be able to enjoy the view over the whole city. There is also an option to go by car and then walk a bit up to the hill.

Just to let you know that now you have to pay 80 ARS for the entrance. We assume that it was not changed a long time ago, as we could not find anywhere that there is a fee to enter the park.

As it was Saturday, on the way back from Cerro Amigo we visited a local feria Artesanal which takes places three times a week. It is a great spot for handicraft shopping and a lazy afternoon with a draft beer in your hand.

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Day 2: National Park Lake Puelo

On the second day, we decided to visit National Park Lake Puelo which was recommended by the hostel owners.

To get there is easy, you just catch a local bus, and you arrive at the entrance of the National Park in approx 50 min.

Before you enter the park, you have to pay for the entrance, and for foreigners, it was 370 ARS.

Once we were in National Park Lake Puelo we decided to hike to see the Lake view. It was a one-hour trail, ending with a nice view over the whole of Puelo Lake.

When we were on the way back from the trail, we opted for another easy hike to see the Botanic Garden. Overall, we stayed for more than three hours in the park and it was a pleasant experience.

Day 3: Leaving El Bolson

The third day was our time to leave El Bolson and continue our trip to the South of Patagonia. The good thing was that it was raining the entire day, so it was perfect timing to travel.

Where to stay in El Bolson while Backpacking in Patagonia

We booked two nights in Cabanas y Hostel Pehuenia which overall was a viable option.

Wi-Fi: good signal, mainly in the common areas

Location: excellent, right in the city center

Price: reasonable for a double room with shared bathroom

Extra info: Very nice owners, they gave us a few tips on what to do and see

Click here to see other accommodation in El Bolson and choose the perfect stay for your trip.

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Backpacking in Patagonia - Lake Puelo view

El Chalten– Backpacking in Patagonia

Our next destination was El Chalten, the National Capital for trekking.

Now, how to get from El Bolson to El Chalten at the beginning of November?

It was quite a problem for us as due to the low season, there were almost no buses to El Chalten (the high season starts on the 15th of December).

There was only one company that was offering this route and it was Taqsa Marga.

Obviously, they took advantage of having no competition at that time and the price for the bus ticket was costly 7000 ARS/ per person (over 100 EUR). On top of the price, the bus company did not offer any food or drinks during the 24h trip, so we would definitely not recommend them. Only if there is really no other choice, like in our case.

The good thing is that you arrive early in the morning at El Chalten and you have the whole day in front of you.

Day 1: Laguna Torre Trail

It was a sunny day, so we decided to go for the 9 km long Laguna Torre Trail. Since we did not sleep so well on the bus, the trail was quite exhausting, however, when we got to the end, we forgot all the pain. We saw beautiful Laguna Torre with glaciers everywhere, it was a really stunning view!

The entire trail took us approx 6h and when we got back to our accommodation in Chalten we were exhausted and happy at the same time.
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Backpacking in Patagonia - Laguna Torre trail
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Day 2: Crazy Weather

The second day was raining a lot and there was a crazy wind, so we could not go anywhere. We took some time off and relaxed the whole day, waiting for better weather in the coming days.

Day 3: Lago Capri Trail

On our third day, we got lucky as the weather was better, and we could do another trail to Lago Capri. At the end of the town, you will be able to see the sign Laguna de Los Tres where the trail starts.

The distance to Capri Lake is 4 km when the first two kilometers are straight up to the hill. We realized why this trail is so popular among other people. When you walk up to the Lake Capri, you can see the Mountain Fitz Roy with a glacier around it, just beautiful.

Overall, we really liked El Chalten, it is a small village in the middle of the Patagonian mountains with friendly people, so if you are doubting visiting Chalten, we definitely recommend it.

And if you can stay for more days!

Where to stay in El Chalten while Backpacking in Patagonia

During our trip to El Chalten, we stayed in Hotel Lago del Desierto which was our first hotel, not a hostel in Patagonia.

Wi-Fi: Weak signal, only around reception

Location: excellent, 7 min walk from the Bus terminal

Price: reasonable for a hotel and a double room with a private bathroom

Extra info: best breakfast in Patagonia, with scrambled eggs, cakes and more

Check the prices and availability for more options in El Chalten.

El calafate – Backpacking in Patagonia

Our next stop in our backpacking journey in Patagonia was El Calafate where we arrived from El Chalten by bus.

We spent three days in Calafate with the fact that on the first day we arrived from el Chalten in the late afternoon.

El Calafate city is a famous travel destination mainly for its Glacier Perito Moreno. We were here for the same reason, to visit His Majesty Perito Moreno Glacier.

The city is small, but probably the most crowded by tourists than other cities in Patagonia. The reason might also be that there is an airport and many bus routes which connect you with other parts of Patagonia.

When you visit the city, there are many travel agencies that offer various tours to the Glacier. You can do the basic tour and just walk around on balconies to see the Glacier. You can also take a boat trip to see the Glacier from a different perspective, or you can walk on the glacier with crampons for 1.5h or 3h.

There are many other tours and combinations you can do, however, for us, the main and most important part was to see Perito Moreno Glacier.

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Backpacking in Patagonia - Part of Glacier Perito Moreno

Day 1: Organising Tour to Glacier Perito Moreno

During the first day, we organized our transport to the Glacier, which was 1200 ARS (return ticket per person) with a guide who explained to us a bit more about the history and decisive moments of the Glacier.

On top of the bus, you also have to pay the entrance fee to the National Park, which was 800 ARS/per person. You can actually use the same ticket if you want to visit the park the next day with a 50% discount, so you pay only 400 ARS.

To be honest, we were thinking a lot about which tour to choose and if to invest extra money and walk on the glacier with crampons for a few hours. The price of this tour was approximately 9000 ARS (€120-€130) per person and as our budget was €40 per person per day, we would be a way behind our budget.

On the other hand, we were thinking, it is once a lifetime you are walking on the Glacier. After some discussion and consideration, we opted in only for the basic tour, which is the bus and the entrance ticket. And it was definitely great!!

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Day 2: Glacier Perito Moreno

As we mentioned, during the first day, we went through all the options to be able to choose the right tour for us. We decided on the most economic one, which was to pay for the transport and park entrance. And we were not disappointed.

We loved the Glacier Perito Moreno, we could see it from different perspectives and angles, and we saw how some parts of the ice were breaking and falling to the water.

It was a unique experience for us, and we leave here a few pictures of this remarkable place, which we would recommend to anybody.

Unfortunately, we cannot transmit the feelings we had when we saw this massive piece of ice, 5 km wide and 70 m high.

Just beautiful!!
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His Majesty
Backpacking in Patagonia - National Rodeo El Calafate and a Choripan

Day 3: Lake Argentino

We had one more day in El Calafate, so we took advantage of it and went for foot to the Lake Argentino which is the largest lake in South America.

We could see many birds and flamingos and on the way back to the city, there was a small surprise – National Day with Rodeo and Dance.

Furthermore, we were lucky to walk around during Saturday and be able to experience Rodeo in Patagonia. It was the first time it was sawed life rodeo with traditional dresses and food. It was a lot of fun and during the event, we also tried the traditional ChoriPan – Chorizo with bread.

Our experience in Calafate was unforgettable and Glacier Perito Moreno will stay on the top of our best adventures.

Where to stay in El Calafate while Backpacking in Patagonia

During our stay in El Calafate, we opted for Patagonia Republic Hostel, which was a small hostel close to the city center. UPDATE : (probably they change the name, but to find other accommodation in El Calafate, click here to see the availability and prices.

Wi-Fi: excellent signal

Location: good location to the city center, about a 20-min walk from the Bus Terminal

Price: Expensive

Extra info: We could book a bus transport to Glacier Perito Moreno with a guide directly through the hostel for 1200 ARS (1000 ARS without a guide). You could also book other tours directly at the hostel.

Getting to Ushuaia

The next day we continued our journey to Ushuaia – The End of the World, but first, we had to figure out how to get there during a low season.

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Backpacking Patagonia - Ferry we used to get Ushuaia

How to get to Ushuaia – uruguay itinerary

How to get from El Calafate to Ushuaia

To get to Ushuaia from el Calafate wasn’t that easy, as we had to catch two different buses. It is actually easy when you catch the flight, and you can arrive in Ushuaia in a few hours. However, for us, the flights were too expensive, so we opted in for the bus.

From Calafate, we caught a bus to Rio Gallegos, which is about a 4h ride with Tasqa company (1770 ARS/per person if you pay in cash at the bus terminal). We slept one night in Rio Gallegos and caught the first bus at 9 am to Ushuaia. This route is about 12h, including the ferry you have to catch towards the end of the trip (4800 ARS/per person in cash).

Important information to be taken into account:

To buy both tickets, we went to the Bus Terminal in Calafate and got the tickets from there. Unlike other Bus Terminals in other cities, in Calafate, the price was lower when we paid in cash. Some other cities did not have this option, so the price was the same paying cash or by card, so we recommend always checking at the bus terminal if there is a cheaper price.

Other option…

Now, there is also a bus from Calafate to Rio Gallegos at 3 am. You arrive at Rio Gallegos Bus Terminal just on time to catch the second bus to Ushuaia. This option is for those who don’t want to spend money on accommodation in Rio Gallegos. We also thought about this option, but ultimately, you don’t sleep properly at all, and you arrive at Ushuaia totally exhausted, so we opted for the above option.

The bus from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia is quite adventurous as you have to pass the Chilean border, ferry and back to the Argentinian border. If you think you are going to sleep a lot during the 12h ride, you are mistaken. We could not sleep much as after approx. one hour on the road, you stop at the Chilean border, you have to get out of the bus with all your belongings and pass the border control with your passport.

Tip: Don’t take any fruit or vegetables as they will throw it away at the border.

After you pass the border control, you continue for some hours until you get to the ferry which is still in Chile. You have to get out of the bus for the 30min ride. Shortly after you get on the bus again, you stop at the Argentinian border. You have to get out of the bus again, pass the border control with your passport.

Approx 3h from Ushuaia you stop at the Rio Grande for more or less 20min as some passengers get in and out. You don’t want to sleep before you get to Ushuaia as there is beautiful landscape like Lago Escondido which you can see from the road.

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Ushuaia Patagonia

Ushuaia

Finally, we arrived in Ushuaia – The End of the World (El Fin del Mundo).

We planned 5 nights as we wanted to take some break and relax before we continue our backpacking trip in Patagonia.

During our whole stay, we had great weather, so we could explore well Ushuaia city and the area around. There are a few things we would recommend doing in Ushuaia as they are fully worth it.

Day 1: Relax

The first day in Ushuaia we just relaxed and walked around the city, we went for lunch to try some typical Argentinian meat and also worked a bit at our blog.

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Costera Trail

Day 2: National Park Tierra del Fuego and Train Ride

We strongly recommend visiting the National park Tierra del Fuego. You can get there by rented car, by taxi or by regular bus transport. The cheapest option is by bus as return ticket costs 850 ARS/per person.

The park offers many options like Train at the End of the World and different trekking options.

The entrance to the park was 560 ARS/per person in November 2019. We opted in for the Costera Trail, which takes about 3h, and it offers a beautiful view over the Bahia.

We did not take the train ride due to our budget. However, other travelers informed us that it is very nice, especially when there is snow. The basic price is around €25/ per person for the shortest ride. We were there towards the end of November and there was no snow anymore, so we will have to come back one day and take the train ride during the wintertime.

Day 3: Boat Tour

On our third day, we decided to take a boat tour. When you go to the Ushuaia port, there are many companies which offer boat rides. There are also many options, from a short trip to the long one.

As we prefer small boats over big ones, we opted in for the Yate Tango Boat tour. It was recommended by another traveler because max 12 people fit on the boat, and they provide you unlimited beer and snacks. Definitely something for us, of course, not only for the beer.

The other tours were mostly for bigger groups, like 50 to 100 people, which was not so attractive for us. YateTango offers tours three times a day, and we chose the one at 6.30 pm to observe the sunset. The tour takes about 3 hours, and you also go for a short walk on the British Island.

We could observe sea lions and cormorants from a very short distance and also visit the famous Light House at the End of the World. By the way, the guide informed us that the Light House is still working until now.

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Lighthouse at the End of the World
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Boat Trip Ushuaia

On the way back, you can see a beautiful sunset while drinking beer and eating the Southern King Crab, which is very popular in this area. (this is for extra surcharge 500 ARS/one bowl, which was a good portion for both of us). 

The King Crab was delicious and fresh as it was caught by the owner of Yate Tango, who also owns the fish boat company.

You have also a chance to taste the Southern King Crab in most of the restaurants in Ushuaia. However, the prices are a bit different, the cheapest King Crab we saw on the menu was around 800 ARS.

Day 4-5: Exploring Ushuaia

On our last days, we wanted to rent a car and visit the Lago Escondido area. We checked the prices for renting a car and in the end, we decided to save money and skip this activity.

If you are not on a budget, local people recommended visiting this area, which looked very nice from the bus when we were coming to Ushuaia. As we did not explore this area, we cannot advise you a lot. However, you can find a “Visitor center” in the city center, where they will provide you with all the information you need.

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Lake Escondido

Where to stay in Ushuaia while backpacking in patagonia

For the first 2 nights we stayed in a Guesthouse (we don’t remember the name) a bit outside the city, closer to the National Park. We stayed in the double room and shared the whole house with the owner. We felt at home as she was very welcoming and friendly, and she also gave us extra suggestions on what to do and see in Ushuaia.

Wi-Fi: excellent signal

Location: a bit far from the city center, walking around 50 min, there was a bus which was passing through the whole city, and then you just walked up to the hill for 10 min

Price: cheap

Extra info: the very nice owner of the house, the house is almost new and the facilities provided are great

The other 3 nights we stayed in Ses Hunnica small studio with a bathroom and kitchen closer to the city center. It was nice to have our place without sharing, so we used the time to cook our own meal and relax before our next stop.

Wi-Fi: Good signal

Location: closer to the city center, about 30-min walk, no bus around, so the best way is to walk to the house

Price: cheap

Extra info: It was quite hard to find as the house is hidden behind the owner’s house, you have to check the number of the street carefully, also there is a big Carrefour around 10-min walk.

To find other accommodations in Ushuaia, click here to see the availability and prices.

Conclusions – Backpacking in Patagonia

From Ushuaia, we decided to take a plane back to Buenos Aires to continue our journey in Uruguay.

This is our One-month backpacking Itinerary in Patagonia

We enjoyed it a lot, and would definitely come back one day. If you have other suggestions or questions about Patagonia, feel free to contact us, we are more than happy to help you.

If you have other travel tips and travel advice for our readers, don’t hesitate to comment below or write us an email.

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Thanks for reaching the end of this article, if you are interested in more travel and food tips around the world, every month (more or less) we come out with a new post in Spanish and one in English.

A hug for you, friends, travelers and foodies of Fun Food Travelling.

Our tip: When we travel we always make sure to have travel insurance. Our personal recommendation is Truetraveller as they have great support and health coverage around the world. And don’t worry if you forget about it, you can purchase the insurance during your trip!

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About Author

Mika

Mika is the adventurous soul of this blog.
She has traveled, lived, and worked in all 5 continents, but it seems she's still not satisfied yet.
Her desire to travel is so big that one beautiful day she decided to open her own online business to be able to work from any part of the world.
Now, she is effectively a successful entrepreneur and a digital nomad.
If there's a person who can give travel advice for sure, it's her.
Don't miss her posts because they are authentic hand grenades full of useful information.

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